[From DaniDraws.com]
One of the biggest challenges a beginning painter will face is learning to paint flesh tones. The skin is highly complex, made up of varying colors and textures; if you get one thing wrong, you could end up with some pretty scary results.
Here’s a few simple tips to help you conquer this problem.
A Japanese tutorial on how to draw plaid on skirts, but can be used on any piece of clothing. The images are easy to follow, so the text is not important. Can be used with any medium or style. Source unknown.
Source artist is Kantoku. God of tartan.
oh yes good
Click the image to go to the fullsize! Easier to read.
A big ol’ tip on drawing cities from street-level. The drawings are pretty crude, (I did them very fast,) but I think they get the point across :) I’m sure some streets like in the first example actually exist in the world, but why would you choose to draw something so boringly bland?
Hope it helps you out!
I’ve been seeing a lot of perspective tricks pop up on my dash, so I thought I’d share the one I use when drawing backgrounds. I’m working with Photoshop CS4 here.
reblogging for some major inspirational shit right there.
Damn, dude. I feel better having read that.
(Source: i-am-the-oracular-spectacular)
pleg:
I’ve had a few inquiries about where to print and what to print, so I’m going to make a guide based of what I’ve done over the years.
WHAT TO PRINT:
This can be a really tough question. Do you prefer to do large, finished images. Or do you like working on smaller, simpler stuff? Here’s a list of basic sizes:
- 4x6 (postcard sized)
- 8.5x11 (standard piece of paper)
- 11x17 or 12x18 (poster sized)
Now, that’s just for prints. If you want to do bookmarks, 1-1.5x4in+ is generally the way to go. I’ve also seen people sell things like paper dolls, puppets, and all sorts of other paper crafts! So don’t feel like you’re limited to just prints.
In terms of trinkets like keychains or charms, the size is really up to you! There are lots of people who make keychains out of 2-3in. chibis, laminate them, and attach them to keyrings. I think these are really cute and very cost effective! Charms can go from 1-3in, and can either be done via shrinky dink paper (which I have seen around and think is awesome) or you can get them professionally printed and laser cut. The former is much cheaper and easier, but the latter looks a bit more pro, in my opinion at least.
The next thing to put into consideration is the technical stuff! Basically all I have to say here is to work at 300dpi or higher, and always make sure your stuff translates well to CMYK! I’m not very good at doing that second part, and I’ve had some problems because of it. Don’t become like me! Be prepared! ; A ;
I guess all I have left to give is all my links! I hope you guys find this stuff useful and I hope you all have good AA experiences! I look forward to selling with some of you in the future! :3
Business Cards:
- http://us.moo.com/ Amazing quality, will make custom QR codes and all sorts of neat stuff!
- http://www.overnightprints.com/ not quite as good as moo, but nice customer service
Printing:
- http://www.catprint.com/pages/home Great quality, fast service, good customer service too!
Charms:
- http://www.zapcreatives.co.uk/ Good quality, does more than just charms too!
- http://www.printsess.com/ Great quality, also offers metal charms in case you’re looking for something sturdier!
Buttons:
- http://www.purebuttons.com/ Super good quality, fast and friendly! They still send me a thank you Christmas card every year, even though I haven’t bought from them the past couple years.
Promotional Stuff:
- http://www.clearbags.com/ Want plastic sleeves for your prints? Want cool display boxes? Want cute little pouches for your charms? YEAH YOU DO! These guys are sorta spendy though, but in the end they are totally worth it!
I’ll probably be updating this thing over the years with more places I end up liking!
Oh this is really helpful!
Woah, never expected some of these things. *w* I may try the comb trick, while installing my thesis on the wall.
okay the knot onr is rlly cool
The head, at various angles, in perspective.
BEAUTIFUL REFERENCE
ooh
First, start with a shitty sketch in an obscenely bright color, so that not only are you the only person that understands the sketch, but you are also the only person that can bear to look directly at it without hearing the pained sizzle of your previously functional retinas.
This is, obviously, to protect the state secrets you’ve kept encrypted in the sketch itself. You are a patriot after all, and you would kill to keep your homo drawings safe for your country.
Next, lower the opacity of your sketch layer to 30% or below, so that you need to tilt the screen and crane your head at a weird angle to see the sketch. Then make a new layer to ink on. You tell people that this is so you can preserve the spontaneity of your line quality so the drawing doesn’t become stiff.
In actuality, this crucial process ensures that you have no fucking idea what you’re doing at any given time.
Next, make the sketch layer invisible and make a new layer over top of it. Using fillbucket, slap an arbitrary base color down. A midtone is best because it gives you the flexibility to go lighter or darker with the rest of your colors, but if you’re a fucking asshole, you can choose brighter or darker colors just so you can heavily regret your decision later.
Then using as many layers as you require, do some shitty colors. Bitterly reprimand yourself for not making closed shapes in your ink layer so that you have to do all the colors by hand instead of just fillbucketing this entire step.
Try not to use too many colors. I usually max it out at 1) a few neutrals that relate to the base color 2) a bright color that also relates to the base color and 3) one complementary-ish bright color that pops. All other colors are just slight value/saturation variations on these other 3 colors
Finally, disregard all the work you did and overload your smoldering turd with Photoshop filters.
Post the image. Hope no one notices that you have no fucking idea how to draw black people. Cry uncomfortably loudly to yourself over a chocolate cupcake while sitting in a public place.
Now you are an artist.
e1n:
MAGICAL PHOTOSHOP FILTER THAT MAKES PERSPECTIVE GRIDS FOR YOU
Okay, maybe people know about this for awhile already, but I just discovered it last night when I was copy pasting something and instead of pressing Ctrl+V, I hit Ctrl+Alt+V.
Best things tend to happen by accident.
(Except maybe pregnancies, but even that’s arguable)
OK SO i get asked about colors a lot and i’m really sorry i am so lame at giving detailed answers SO I’M GONNA ATTEMPT TO FORMULATE SOME„, BASIC TIPS I GUESS
LET ME JUST START OUT BY SAYING i’m not really a very skilled or fancy or formally educated artist (shocking i know) and i don’t take drawing very seriously, BUT I HOPE A FEW THINGS I HAVE SAY WILL HELP YOU(extra commentary in case anything is hard to read, here is the whole thing in one pic and not an obnoxious photoset)
1. HAVE FUN WHEN YOU ARE COLORING JEEZ don’t loose hair over trying really hard to study and adsorb shading and lighting ‘ruuuules’!! and while enough basic understanding is obviously important and necessary in creating believable and realistic pieces, being creative is also really important as well!! the bottom line of art is that there ARE no rules, and if you really do want to be happy with your work, i find a lot of satisfaction arises in knowing i made something only /I/ could make!! and besides, if i didn’t have fun making art, then i wouldn’t do it, frankly
2. PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT TONE YOUR COLORS PORTRAY this is especially true for people and expressions and setting
since color is such a big part of a piece, it also plays a big role in setting the tone of your work!! take a minute to evaluate the context of whatever you’re drawing and then try to see what colors would best parrallel that! and especially don’t be afraid to venture into palettes you don’t normally use!! but once you choose a palette that matches the tone of your work BE SURE TO STICK WITH IT so it is contiguous in both the background and foreground
(i used twilight princess and skyward sword as an example, i hope my analysis makes sense)
3. be sure to scribble with and test how colors look together BEFORE you take them to your lines!! and finally HAVE FUN WITH YOUR COLORING i know i already said this but it’s simply tragic when an artist becomes bored/uninterested/frustrated with colors ahhh!!! remember that every artist has different coloring styles so try you best to observe others’ techniques!! pay attention to what you like about them, but ALSO pay attention to what you dislike!!
practice a lot of styles, and ask around which programs/brush settings artists use if you find yourself interested in them!! i’m sorry i can’t help you with more technicalities, but learning for yourself is also half the fun!! plus i’m a lazy motherfucker and i’m bad a tutorials anyway
OKKKKAAY THANKS FOR READING OLLIE OUT
A super quick trick for drawing draped fabric that my art teacher taught me in high school.
okay guys someone the other day asked for a bow tutorial so here it is! :> I hope it is helpful.
It’s not exactly the most precise archery information but I included what was relevant in terms of actually drawing—and remember as always, references are great in addition to looking through tutorials
am I even qualified enough to make a tutorial? oh well it was funTumblr made them weeny but the magnifying glass will take you to full view
OR
As an ex-archer, I can confirm these are reliable notes!
reblog for reference!
PLEASE WATCH IN HIGH RES, HD!! ahh here is that video/tutorial thingy i promised i would make uvu;; i used this john and dave pic and tried to cut out me surfing/tumbling as much as possible haha its also been sped up
edit: OH ALSO ONE THING TO KEEP IN MIND is that i color all on one layer haha
here are what my brush settings look like the thing about digital painting is im always messing around with these settings i find that if you sort of just reuse the same formulas every time your artwork can start to feel a little stale!! so just have fun and be free with it not everything has to be serious all the time!! the point of this tutorial/video isnt for you to copy my style but to apply certain techniques to your own talents/preferences/styles!!
SKIN:
brush
watercolor brush (for blending)
brush/pencil tool (for emphasis/hard edges, i.e. eye frame, pupil)
HAIR:
depending on which, you can either start with a Brush tool with a solid shade (like John’s) or you can go in with the Oil Water brush and pick up from the background color (Dave’s). i suggest only starting with the oil water brush if you already have a background color to pick up from, otherwise you’ll just be picking up white. :p
then, oil water brush for blended strokes
as you get to the top layer of hair, use the brush tool for a bolder stroke
then use the airbrush tool for emphasis
CLOTHES:
pretty much the same exact deal with the hair. for both, make sure youre using both the oil water brush and the brush tool, both of them pick up the previous colors, but the oil brush blends more and the brush tool has a harder stroke.
i tend to use the oil water brush first, then go back with the brush tool for an emphasized fold.
also for both, whether youre picking up the bg color or not,i always start with the darkest shade and then work my way up with colors.
i guess my style heavily relies on color blending, and i like to keep a unified palette that way. uvu dont be afraid to get blendy or messy, as i always go back and reinforce lines with air brush. for sketching, i use a light blue shade with the marker tool, then i recolor the line (usually purple/red) with the paintbucket and “clipping group” option on another layer.
i hope this has helped you all!! feel free to send any questions my way if you need any!! happy arting!!
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